Best Impression of an Authentic Greek Taverna

San Francisco Guardian

With a front room full of exposed beams, sandy walls, chaise lounges, a roaring fireplace, and a bar, Kokkari really does cast that Greek-islands spell; you glance out the window half-expecting to see in the middle distance a 12th-century Venetian-built fort guarding the harbor and the nearby Aegean. Instead you see Jackson Square, sigh, and sit down to some fine food, from a traditional Greek salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, red onion, and feta to such Californianized dishes as grilled tuna with oregano pesto. For dessert, have a snifter of Metaxa (the Greek brandy) while talking with your hands. You'll fit right in. 200 Jackson street at Front, S.F. (415) 981-0983.