The Best of San Francisco

By Sara Deseran
Thursday, June 1, 2006
7x7 San Francisco

Best Roast

Ever since chef Erik Cosselmon started at Kokkari in 2004, he's made the most of the Greek restaurant's huge fireplace, the centerpiece of the front dining room.  On the two spits set directly in front of the flames, he's roasted nearly every type of meat imaginable, from whole, milk-fed Napa Valley lamb to Moscovy hen and Berkshire pig.  Cooking has never been so elemental - nor, we might add, so simply delicious.